|
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
I know,everything is a bit off. Remember, this is a prototype. This was my first attempt at setting all of this up, this all went together over months of incremental change. It works well though.
|
|
|
|
The lids hold most of the water in until the buckets are at the bottom. The longer the buckets hold the water, the greater the efficiency of the wheel.
|
|
|
 |
|
|
I used stone columns to support the flume. It was a lot of hard work, but cheap. They cost me one bag of cement per column since I had the stone. The easiest way is to use a hand truck with air tires.
|
|
PICTURE GALLERY!
This is not in the video, so take note. I cut three inches from the bottom of the lid. I then cut it like you see (yes it is wobbly, but both sides
match up perfectly),making sure to cut a bit of plastic out underneath where it swings (or it will hit and not swing). Then I drill through the
pieces and the bucket and attach it all with a stainless steel nail, which I then bend. The nail is not the only thing holding it on, the lid snaps
down also.
I used regular pillow block bearings. They are cheap and last a long time. I am still debating the merits of using
sealed, oil filled bearings. They are a lot more money, but require no maintenance. Nor do they need protection from
splashing water.